Monday, January 30, 2006

THE STATE OF FASHION UNION

What fashion means to me
Fashion is a funny thing - fickle and ever changing, much like my moods, most of the time. I think its meaning or significance to me is in large part attributed to the fact that it has always played a role in my life, and from a young age, I always considered it important, for reasons at the time that were unknown to me.

I remember as a young clothes horse, when my maternal grandfather died, my main concern when attending his funeral, was what was considered appropriate wear to such an occasion. I remember asking lots of questions - most of them about as considered and tactful as a young clothes horse of about five could manage. (truth be told I was so young I can barely recall how old I was or the year in which he died ..)

I remember being fascinated by the response my mother gave me, which was (predictably) that people often wore black to funerals - sombre colours, because you weren't celebratory or happy when you went to a funeral, clothing was not supposed to be showy or bright.

Ironically, this decree to wear non-showy, subdued colours was a problem as being a kid meant that I was lacking in the non-colourful department - and I recall being torn between what was appropriate, what I owned, and what I wanted to wear.

Fashion is to me, mostly about the freedom to make choices.




Why fashion is important
Aesthetics! Colour! Cut! Fit! Tailoring!

In a nutshell, fashion is important to me in a similar way that the visual arts are important. I don't consider art as merely decorative or trivial. Nor do I consider fashion trivial. Choices in fashion are some of the most important decisions many people make in their daily life. Scoff if you like, however, I think you would be hard pressed to find those who don't make fashion choices that aren't dictated by some important factor.

Few people simply wear things because they are there, because they have to.

Even those who claim to dress purely for comfort and practicality are making fashion choices, though theirs are driven by somewhat more "sensible" criteria.

I don't think the decision to wear something because it looks fabulous is any less valid.

Sunday, January 29, 2006

HAUTE COUTURE spring 2006 | Christian Dior


Flashback : Christian Dior haute couture autumn/winter 2005/2006.




John Galliano's at it again.


It seems the ghost of fashion past is not this Madame Dior character he envisioned last season, but deconstruction - and I daresay, not in a good way.


Though his previous collection that I'm referring to was haute couture, it seemed to be full of references already seen in ready-to-wear collections from other designers (Gaultier, Margiela) beneath its highly polished surface which didn't really do much more than present a nice little package - no questions. Just pre-packaged responses. Blah. Been there, done that. And better.










Christian Dior Haute Couture, Spring 2006

Post-Gaultier bustier meets axe wielding murderer, post killing spree.




Christian Dior Haute Couture, spring 2006.

Then there's the addition of tops as bottoms.

Where's the spectacle, John? This is just about one step away from a bloody funeral. (pun not intended.)

Might I add that the make up really doesn't do anything to help the collection out of this gory rut. They're more comical masks than anything else --- I don't think the albino look is working here.

Monday, January 23, 2006

MAFW A/W 2006




Josh Goot A/W 2006 Mercedes Australian Fashion Week
Photographs: Ronald Gillard via Vogue.com.au



I was just looking at the collections on Vogue and was reminded by my Art & Fashion lecturer's comment that "people are willing to pay a lot of money for something that is not only comfortable, but wearable" in reference to Josh Goot's recent rise to attention (though probably not so much here in Perth).

Is it form following function or function following form? You can decide, but I have to say, i thought there were a few rubies in amongst the array of jersey.

Take a look at this little strapless number we have above left.

Jersey may just be something of a wonder-material, I've been thinking. (Generally) Easy-care, two-way stretch to accomodate the inevitable bulges we all have, doesn't crease, falls beautifully. I'd even go so far as to say it's an affordable material --- though of course, you can be sure to expect a designer price tag for one of these babies. I seem to remember said-lecturer off-handedly quoting AUD$300 for a mens tshirt. Hm.



Meanwhile ...

Here's something from Mad Cortes ---

Cute dress, check.
Dancing shoes, check.
Somewhat interesting jewellery, check.

My grandmother's knee-high stockings ... uh.



Really don't know what the deal is there. Particularly given that these dresses whilst channelling the twenties, seem to have that Grecian feel to them, with the billowing armholes and loose cuts.

Something tells me a drawn-on seam at the back of the leg would have worked too.





Mad Cortes A/W MAFW 2006
Photograph: Ronald Gillard via Vogue.com.au

A CERTAIN GARMENT


Above | Yohji Yamamoto garment | Photograph: Nick Knight
via showstudio.com



Now you have the original pattern of a certain garment. It is hard to see what it is just looking at it. The fabric should be some kind of wool... Then, you have the photo that tells you a little bit more. Take a close look at the symbols that are inscribed on the pattern. They are important leads to construct the garment. Now, spread your imagination and good luck!
Yohji Yamamoto, May 2002

I was really excited to find this pattern produced by Yohji Yamamoto --- "a certain garment" with construction dictated by symbols that one is supposed to figure out with your pre-existing knowledge about sewing from patterns (eg. dots that indicate dart placement, lines indicating seams).
I guess you could say i'm now inspired. Stay tuned for my version of "a certain garment".




Above | Garment by Min Lee, South Korea; via showstudio.com